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20/01/2012: A Long December - by Guy Ruston (HK Sales Executive)

Having spent December ruining any chances of doing ‘that big trek in Nepal in 2012’ by wining and dining myself towards gout, or worse, I have a back log of tasting notes to write up…actually I think the idea of ‘that big trek’ was hatched during a wine dinner so it doesn’t count….

The following is a bit of mixed bag of bottles consumed at Gough 40, a top notch neighbourhood restaurant in Sheung Wan (they serve an incredible lobster linguine, by the way).  

Whilst having a specific theme to a wine dinner is great fun and intellectually rewarding, having a random free-for-all always tends to offer up one or two surprises, just as this dinner did.

2000 ‘Y’ d’Yquem
After only having tried young examples of this rare gem I was incredibly excited to try a fully mature bottle from a solid vintage. Boy it didn't disappoint. An explosive nose of citrus, melon and honeysuckle giving way to spicy, nutty aromas with time in the glass. Rich, rounded and generous on the palate with lots of fruit, glycerine, and a smoky, gun flint character on the back end that reminds me of Dagueneau's 'Silex'. The (roughly) equal parts of Semillon and Sauvignon in the blend lead to a wonderfully balanced wine, capable of partnering an array of cuisine. My immediate thought is how interesting it would be to try this with Sushi and Sashimi. Quite simply one of the best dry white Bordeaux I've tasted. Maybe I've underscored this? (94 points) GR

1996 CNDP Blanc Rousanne VV, Beaucastel
Took an eternity to come around and had me wondering as always with premium white Rhone; had we opened it at the wrong time? By that, I am of course referring to the bamboozling evolutionary cycle of such wines. Drink them young or drink them old but anywhere in between and they’ll be dull and lifeless. Admittedly I still haven’t figured it out but by the time we were well into the reds, ‘pang’ it sprang into life. Mint, citrus and orange blossom on the nose with a waxy, nutty wave behind it. This went off on the palate in small, controlled explosions of fruit and minerality with an epic length. Stunning and fully justifies playing the ‘when to open it’ lottery. (94 points) GR

1983 Leoville Barton
A beautiful, classic St. Julien nose though a little tired and drying on the palate. Sadly its best days gone it’s still nice to try relics such as this.

1975 Giscours
The surprise of the night. Not as hard and angular as many of the ‘75s are, yet the firm tannins so synonymous with this vintage are holding the delicious ‘old school’ Claret flavours together. It’s all there; blackcurrant (though slightly fading), tobacco, old leather, spice box with just enough acidity hanging in there keeping the finish fresh and alive. A really charming style of Bordeaux that sadly no longer exists. (92 points) GR

1981 Sassicaia
My last bottle of my favourite birth-year Super Tuscan (ahem…the only decent Super Tuscan made in ’81) and an admirable showing it is too. So deep and powerful on the nose, like a black, bottomless pit, reminiscent of Latour in some respects, this is a wine easy to over look if you simply follow the scores of critics. On the palate it is alive and kicking. Smokey, spicy with waves of ripe fruit. This wine has plenty of years left in the tank. (92 points) GR

Thanks to Jimmy and his team at Gough 40 and to my guests for bringing such great and interesting bottles.

Blog

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