11/06/2010: Egon Muller @ The Ledbury - by Gareth Birchley (Buyer)
A tall, conservative man of ice cool composure, Egon Muller is the fourth generation owner of a German household likened in some circles to royalty. Behind the facade he is a laid back, relaxed, generous wine producer who believes, despite secondary market demands, his wine should be bought and enjoyed by those who genuinely appreciate and understand his unobtainable Rieslings. Some wine producers somehow manage to transcend their peers in scarcity, demand and often an extra dimension most can only dream of. This "je ne sais quoi" puts producers like Muller, Rayas, Le Pin and of course Henri Jayer on a pedestal - something for consumers to aim at, and feel grateful to drink even the scraps from the table.
My first encounter with the man was as a young student. Still wet behind the ears I approached Muller's then UK agent regarding a visit while in Germany the following month. I was abruptly told he would not see me and didn't accept visitors - so naturally I called the man himself who gladly took the time to show me round the cellars (as few have) and drink some great wines throughout the afternoon. Over the last few years I have visited Muller on each trip to Germany and have been on the receiving end of his generosity on numerous occasions. How could we possibly have a series of Riesling dinners without Egon Muller? Impossible.
We began the meal with a trio of Rieslings a million miles apart stylistically - from Adelaide Hills to Slovakia, Egon is not only making great wines in Germany. Foie Gras Cremaux with Smoked Eel Jelly and Frozen Apple matched to Scharzhofberger Kabinett 1995 and 2004 - for me this was the food and wine match of the evening despite my previous reservations that fifteen year old kabinett might not be rich enough to stand up to foie gras "When Brett is concerned I should have known better"
We moved through the Pradikats as the meal went on and with a glass of Eiswein '87 in hand Egon spoke, "I travel the world showing my wines with great food, but I have never experienced food and wine matching like this" Kudos to Brett and the team who continue to produce the best food in London and will doubtless have 3 stars in time.
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